INSPIRED BY THE BATTLE OF MOBY DICK AND OTHER ITERATIONS OF LITERATURE, THOM BROWNE DIVES DEEP INTO THE BLUES AND HUES OF THIS NEW COLLECTION. SHOWCASING OUTERWEAR AND AN ASSORTMENT OF ACCESSORIES, HAS THE BRAND MANAGED TO RETAIN HIS INFLUENTIAL CREATIVITY WITHIN THIS NEWEST SHOW? GABRIEL WINTER FINDS OUT MORE.
Sincere, ambiguous and heavy are three words that encapsulate this Pre-Fall 2023 collection. After commencing in 2001, the brand gained popularity under the creative direction of the main man himself, an individual whose vision carried him through Ralph Lauren and Armani over the years until finally Thom Browne launched his luxury fashion brand in the early millennia.
Visually similar pieces in varieties of colours and patterns seem to dominate the overall collection. Look 37 stages a large oversized eggshell grey raincoat adorned with the violent battle of how Moby Dick drowned Captain Ahab amidst the presence of a sketched scene that patterns the garment.
Two-time stylist for Thom Browne and French fashion Designer Dorian Sgarra, owner of Maison Sgarra who studies at ESMOD International in Paris said he believes "the brand has its own style, of course, every house has a unique style, but for this brand, it's all about the materials and fabrics they use." Going on to mention that the house creates "a sense of originality and authenticity." Thom Browne has always designed against the grain and played around with the gender conforms of fashion within his brand, focussing more recently on his advanced approach to menswear; "adorning men in stereotypically feminine attire such as undergarments and skirts." The staple headscarves and sunglasses are what carry as motifs throughout the collection as something seen to be more effeminate than masculine, though Browne isn't fearful of how to present menswear through his vision of fashionable fluidity when it comes to gender.
The scarves, sunglasses and platform heels reflect the 1950s-esque dress sense, resonating with motifs of how Dorothy and Mary Poppins once clicked their heels. "The models always seem to find themselves in the first position, a signature of Thom Browne's photoshoots."
There's something abnormal amidst the air of this collection. The majority of the garments are "super puffy, long and not really the normal Thom Browne style, the models are wrapped up in heavy and non-fitting clothing," though to the eye Thom Browne is still recognisable through the brand's art of immaculate craftsmanship and signature style of basic yet chic colour palettes and use of staple features such as knee-high socks and the typical Oxford brogue.
On the topic of the brand's style, when asked to describe what he believed it to be, Sgarra says "I would describe it as formal, old-school and serious... but make it fashion." Going further to say "They always find a way to create something that contrasts the origins of the garments they create, like skirts with jockstraps." Though this collection didn't break any particular norms, it stayed true to what menswear is perceived to be. Rather basic; comprised of the same style coats in variations of colour and pattern, shoes, the occasional scarf wrapped in an Audrey Hepburn style, cuddling the model's face.
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