Dive backstage at Louis Vuitton with the Lead Casting Director, Ashley Brokaw, and learn about location, inspiration and more!
Louis Vuitton is bound to leave their mark on the upcoming men's fashion week with their impeccable fashion show productions. As men's fashion week is fast approaching, Paris in particular, you might be thinking it is pretty hard to follow their most recent Cruise 2023 show held at sunset, but we are sure to expect something special once more.
Brokaw sits down to give us an insight into her elusive behind the scenes world of casting, and more about the recent shows we have seen grace the LV runways and campaigns.
We all know the infamous brand of Louis Vuitton, the measures they take to put on the show of the year and the time they take in putting these measures to the test.
Ashley Brokaw started off as a production assistant to Bruce Webber, and after working for Steven Meisel for many years as a studio manager; Brokaw now has earned the title of one of the most prolific casting directors on the planet. "I have had this business for over 20 years now," says Brokaw, building up an extensive client list including brands like Prada, Loewe, Coach, The Row and, more recently Louis Vuitton under the creative direction of Nicolas Ghesquière who labelled her "a fearless creative".
"Sometimes it is a very distinct look that is continuous and represents the brand globally and consistently" says Brokaw; going on to depict that the desires of creative director Nicolas Ghesquière are "girls that are more boyish and tough. The walk and attitude are key for him". Brokaw labelled the type of model that encapsulates this fascinating look as a "Ghesquière girl".
"It is easy to spot a Ghesquière girl when I am scouting."
Where did the inspiration come from for the Salk Institute, Louis Vuitton Cruise Show? "Nicolas and I discussed having more athletic bodies for this collection. We wanted to see more muscles and physical strength in the girls, so we looked at Olympic athletes and other types of bodies". This differs from other shows, with more of your generic model strutting down the runway, without one specific niche. Whereas in Ghesquière's case, it is more specialised and intended, he wanted to portray a unique form of representation, offering Olympians and athletes to take part in the performance that was the Cruise 2023 show.
It is essential to link both designer's inspiration for the show to the elements such as location, casting, lighting and so on. Brokaw was seen to cast the likes of Lauren Wasser, also known as the "model with golden legs" for the 2023 collection, highlighting the effervescent colours of the garments sprawled onto the runway at sunset, hinting to the inspiration for the show being 'Le Soleil'. Adorned head to toe in a brutalist inspired garment reflecting in the architecture of the venue the show honoured its production and natural effect given by the backlit catwalk.
Vuitton has never failed to impress from setting location in places like Axe Majeur for their Cruise 2022 show, and more recently the Salk Institute for Biological Studies on the San Diego coastline for Cruise 2023.
The brutalist piece of architecture used for the location of Louis Vuitton's Cruise 2023 show imitated the collection shown, asymmetrical cuts, stone and neutral colours and pops of blue here and there mimicked the river of life that flowed centre stage between the models, while channelling the setting sunlight from behind. Though it is still unknown who exactly scouts out these locations, "I know Nicolas and his team are very involved," told Brokaw.
When questioned on how well the clothing corresponded to the location set Brokaw went on to explain "I always marvel at how well the clothes work in the show spaces during the resort collections"
"Nicolas has a real talent for mixing the perfect match of location and clothing inspiration." Brokaw comments on the measures taken to definitively specialise the Cruise collection apart from the shows put on by competitors. "His shows are theatrical in a different way. It is more emotional and visceral, and they don't follow the standard runway format", comparing them more to a performance or visual art piece rather than your ordinary and stereotypical fashion show. "It is a great opportunity for him to be more creative and I find they are usually some of his best shows," says Brokaw, talking about the visual depiction and opinions she holds over these fantastic events.
Brokaw has already left an unmistakable and marvellous imprint on the modern-day world of casting, introducing new bodies and getting deeply involved in the productions that go on unbeknown to the public, fully engaging and living through what she excels in.
Whatever it may be, Louis Vuitton is expected to drop its newest collection at the Men's Fashion Week at the end of the month. With Brokaw urging us to "Stay tuned!!!". Will it live up to expectation or bring something new to the table? We will have to wait and see.
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