LFW SS27 — THE ROUND-UP

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Harry

Hi Gabi. Me and Za have just come out of KEBURIA. Writing it up now — short version, what an opener.

Go on then.

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Bold and bombastic, and it includes the label’s first menswear. Sporty, sophisticated, utilitarian, refined — all at once, and somehow still cohesive.

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Hot red denim boot cuts, guitar case over the shoulder, stitched with “Hope you burn PUTIN.”

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There’s a contrast running through it between city and country.

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Park outings in matching nylon windbreakers and micro-shorts. Cocktails in sheer Grecian dresses. Shoreditch block parties in studded leather hot pants and knitted football jerseys.

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Then the other half: countryside jacquards, equestrian jackets, camouflage tweed, hay-like fringing. Each side keeps seeping into the other.

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The tailoring is where it holds together. Broad shoulders, cinched waists.❤️

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Huge pockets, super lapels, low-waisted trousers with the nylon boxers showing underneath.

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Colour: metallic turquoise, blood orange and black against taupe, khaki and tobacco. Nylons, rhinestones and studs throughout.

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It feels like KEBURIA is tearing up the rule book, which isn’t easy to do. But it works. These are garments that will stay with me.‼️

Good. That’s where the round-up starts.

Agro Studio SS27, ‘Glass Body’. Collins Music Hall in Islington, guests wrapped around the venue over three floors.

Corsets, flutter, tulle, suits, shoulder pads. All of it backed by translucent boards, so you got a hint of what was coming before the model actually walked.❤️

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Third season on the official schedule for them now.

And there’s no stopping them either. The reports put the collection at something like 30,000 hand-stitched antique glass buttons — up to 10,000 in a single corset.

Which is the whole title, really. Glass as something you build a body out of rather than look through.

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Menswear and womenswear together again?

Yes. Historical dress against 80s sportswear — corsets over tracksuit bottoms, sculpted shapes cut through with tiny baby tees.

Delicate fabric pushed up against denim, leather, sportswear. It shouldn’t hold and it does.

George Oxby and Angus Cockram started it in 2021. It’s been incredible watching it grow over the last few seasons, and I can’t wait to see what they do next.‼️

And I’ve just come off a village green. Maximilian Raynor, ‘A Village Green Rivalry’ — British heritage and country fêtes, taken apart and put back together.

The Gingers vs the Elders. Two feuding households on a fictional English lawn, pitched somewhere between Ascot, Wimbledon and Romeo and Juliet.

The Gingers fierce and running on Belvoir ginger beer, the Elders silver-haired and on the sparkling elderflower. Both drinks actually being served.

Couture gowns constructed entirely from ribbon, alongside the print pieces — back to what he studied at CSM.❤️

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Is that a Bentley parked on the lawn?

A 1968 one, according to the reports — staged dead centre like a family heirloom nobody dared move. Collaboration with Bentley Motors, and Belvoir Farm on the drinks.

Fractured fascinators, tea dresses cut ruder than the garden party intended, sportswear pulled about with knits and contorted silhouettes.

Complete with a raffle and a live brass band. It was a British dream.

FAB.‼️

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That’s the season then. See you both for Kai x Fin.

Ksenia Schnaider next. The collection is called UTC+1 — the brand locating itself by time zone rather than by country.

First collection with Anton Schnaider as creative director. He comes from graphic design, and it shows in how the whole thing is built out of signs.

Football shirts, racing uniforms, workwear — the visual codes of belonging to something. Numbers, names, badges.

Except none of it belongs to anything real. The logos are invented, the marks are fictional, the teams don’t exist.‼️

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Belonging without the club. That’s a good trick.

And underneath the sportswear it’s just clothes for walking around a city in. Oversized cargo jackets, multi-pocket denim sets, lightweight jerseys.

Cottons, florals, checks, deadstock patchwork — the upcycled character the brand has always had, still there under the badges.

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Set underneath the setting sun, Anciela delivered a hypnotically immersive show.

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Its inception harkened by a master of ceremonies, barefoot, blowing into a conch shell before taking her place behind the microphone.❤️

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The tale of “Roots” is woven through song. Amid soft maracas and thunderclap, clouds sat atop models’ heads in grey cotton and around their waists in sky-blue silk.

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Each silhouette a walking embodiment of the stages of a storm. The spoken score narrated thanks to the rain, and the models echoed it with longing glances as they passed each other by.

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Once the clouds cleared the runway came the building of foundation. Four generations of women, each in differently daring black cut-out ensembles.

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They took their time building a pyre — or perhaps equally, a home. Solemn choreography, each showing her character, and with it the surprising malleability of the garments.

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In the third and final act the poetry turned to the brand’s native Spanish: “Gracias a la vida”.

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In the gratitude came garments that flowed as expressively as their prints. A distinctly Latin blissfulness punctuated the chiffon trains and bustle skirts.

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The narrator stepped out from the shadows and led the charge, urging the audience to clap along and take part in the irresistible protest to keep celebrating life.

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With that, Anciela brought the warmth of a happiness that is earned to LFW.‼️

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Hi you two. Just saw MYAT’s SS27, ‘The Same River Twice,’ at The Hellenic Centre. Completely different to last year — languid rather than loud.

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The models moved slowly and quietly through the space. Some stood beside a withered willow, others bounced on a seesaw. Almost dreamlike.

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At first they seemed a bit lost. Then it started to feel like they were taking the space in, just as much as we were.❤️

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The clothes were familiar but still completely fresh — traditional silhouettes reworked through MYAT’s dark romantic lens.

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Unbuttoned chiffon shirts, halter-neck gowns, sheer knitted mesh dresses. Feathers, frilled tulle, satin.

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Black, white and soft blue on organza, tulle and chiffon. Diaphanous — some pieces fading into ombré like they were disappearing into the air.

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Relaxed but still sensual. Asymmetrical fastenings, exposed shoulders, hot pants, mini skirts, loose draping. Flou was the key word.

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Strong nightwear influence too — sheer billowing gowns, open-cuff cotton shirts, alongside the lingerie we know MYAT for.

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But it didn’t feel like lingerie designed for the male gaze. It felt completely centred on the woman wearing it.‼️

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The whole thing seemed to be about renewal, fate, and seeing something familiar from a different perspective. Well connected to last season while still feeling like a new chapter.

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The MYAT woman is quietly self-assured, and her sensuality is entirely her own. See you both soon for Kai x Fin!

Kai x Fin. ‘Glister’ — their London Fashion Week debut, off-schedule in Bethnal Green, and we were backstage for it.

Both Central Saint Martins. The title comes from the Merchant of Venice line — all that glisters is not gold — and the whole collection argues with it.❤️

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How good is this photography — all shot by Luca Andrea.

Old curtains, bedsheets, carpet, Royal Mail bags, construction tarps. Made into clothes rather than disguised as anything else.

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And the glitter is Nicky Harrington?

All of it. Models covered head to toe in holographic silver and red body glitter, sequinned sections through the hair, paper masks.

Persian rugs down the runway, dreamcatchers overhead, and a cardboard rebuild of Fin’s family home at the end of it.‼️

Visuals at Fashion East!‼️

Natasha Zinko tonight, in an abandoned theatre you get to by going underneath it. Collection is called Pay Per View, in collaboration with OnlyFans.

Interviewed her backstage before it started. Katie Price and Kelly Osbourne were in there rehearsing and getting ready — both of them walked it.❤️

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What did she say it was about?

Her words: “The collection is called Pay Per View, and it’s about the society that we live in — so much live streaming, and people are paid for this.”

“Some people are authentically shown, but some pretend to be another character, and they use clothes to change themselves.”

On the OnlyFans side: “It’s a platform, and it’s actually about pay-per-view in real life. People earn money for being themselves, or playing some character.”

Every model had a talent, and she pointed out most of them get paid for that talent too.

The staging was the argument. “The audience will be watched by our talents, but the talents will be watched by them. It’s vice versa. It’s kind of a panopticon.”

“Each little square is almost like a screen with a different character.”‼️

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Did you ask her about the parasocial side of it?

I did. “It’s a very real dialogue in between. And we are all on some platform. It only depends — we call it differently, or it’s your daily life, but you’re showcasing all the time.”

And on how much the body matters to her: “I love to put clothes that sit on the body. I play with the balance, but I still like to have some part of the body that I want to show — even if it’s oversized, there is something else not oversized.”

“So I play with the volume all the time. And I love the body.”

Geordie Campbell has just unveiled SS27, ‘15 Steps’, on a rooftop in Shoreditch.

Menswear and womenswear both, and the accessories are the thing we have our eyes on.❤️

Slogans, sex and British aesthetics. Ties used around the waist, open buckles, knee-high rubber boots throughout.

Styled by Alex Kessler.

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A rooftop at half ten on a Saturday is a big ask.

Blank Street were up there. I got a cold brew. NEEDED.‼️

A strong collection, and the runway matched it.

John Richmond.‼️

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Just come out of Lavin Karakoc’s second ever runway, at Somerset House.

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Last season introduced us to her minimalist shapes. This time there’s a slightly more colourful palette — sage greens and pops of crimson against a black-and-white backdrop.❤️

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I think I’ve put my finger on a trend this season: sheerness. A go-to for any minimalist, but perhaps next summer we’ll be grateful for it.

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Long column dresses, some completely sheer. Tight sheer tanks layered over other pieces, x-raying the garments underneath.

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I particularly enjoyed the styling — underwear worn out in the searing heat. Maybe not the best idea, but at least we can wear it over our clothes.

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Lacy boxers peeking from waistbands. The A-line opening mini, a model clutching the hem of a loose column dress, straps slipping off shoulders — everything caught in a different state of undress.

Sultry or just a little warm?

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That’s up to you. Either way it looks great.

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The standout is the fabric though. Flashes of luscious silk and satin across tanks, hot pants and shirts.

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My favourite men’s garment was look two — that sharply tailored, high-collared sage satin jacket.‼️

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Alongside the clean, soft tones it makes for a minimalist but highly wearable collection. Dressing for summer doesn’t have to mean dressing down.

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I still can’t get over that this is her second season. Hope you’re both enjoying your day.

Ahluwalia.❤️

Leo Prothmann, at the Cooc Club in Fitzrovia.

TOGA. After finding herself amidst the scorching heat on a trip to Europe, Yasuko Furuta, Creative Director of the Japanese label, began pondering how humans were experimenting with fabrics to help cope with the temperatures.

But, more importantly, celebrating their individual bodies with the least amount of clothing.

“In Tokyo, our Summers are humid and uncomfortable, yet people still layer their clothing. Maybe it’s armour in response to the city that we live in.

“This new collection explores the meeting of these two extremes, how clothing can exist in both worlds. The functionality of sportswear allows us to adapt; liberating us to thrive in ever-changing climates.”

From her show notes.

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Humidity as a design brief. Makes sense.

And what a collection it was. Colourful and textural — rife with organza, layered beneath the pieces to reveal skin and create dimension under trousers, tops and coats, and used as tops in its own right.

Alongside the lighter fabrics, thicker bedazzled sequin pieces in blue and green were complemented by gold shoes on other models.❗