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FashionPFW SS271 October 20263 Min Read

DEAR MATHILDE, DIOR’S GUILDED LOVE LETTER

Words Clementine PoppyImages courtesy of Vogue Runway & Christian DiorPFW SS27ReportsReviewRunway

We are walking on clouds after Dior’s spring-summer collection, dedicated to Mathilde Favier through the calming lens of nature. Clementine Poppy reviews the collection.

Maison Dior held their sixth, much-anticipated runway show, under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson, this afternoon within the Jardin des Tuileries

Noted as a “study of lightness, achieved through technical virtuosity”, the brand took to tailoring with a more vague interpretation, using silks, lace and organza in varying opacities to give the collection an airy, fresh spring temperament as the season emerges from the heavier winter months.

The collection was further inspired by the Chinese traditional practice of rolling a pair of wénwán walnuts in one hand. If committed to the art as a form of meditation, and diligently practised for months to years, the tough walnut exterior is smoothed to a shiny amber surface.

As Anderson stated, the walnuts reminded him of how precious and knowledgeable nature is, and how we should respect it. The organic materials are seen to offer a calming energy, giving the mind a rhythmic focus and a sense of grounded control.

Watching the show live, from a coastal cafe in North Wales, with the birdsong in my headphones, the fashion seems to have taken a similar effect.

Dedicated to Mathilde Favier, , the brands public relations director, who tragically passed away this summer, the collection, despite being in the works for months prior to her passing, was a gracious way to pay respects and honour her work and her influence on the brand.

The soft whites and delicately pleated fabrics walking ethereally on a floating, misty stage were truly a beautiful homage from Jonathan Anderson and the Dior atelier team.

Initial reactions to the collection seem to have wanted more from Dior, especially with the collections styling, with some saying it looked frumpy; however, what is on display is still a truly mastered craft.

The fabrics followed nature's form, paired with the runway's chilly spring morning setting, it felt hauntingly beautiful as the mist settled on the water and the models emerged from the trees.

Florals for spring are certainly not groundbreaking, with the addition of sharp blazers and densely fringed bags, which could be forecasted as the next desired city bag, the florals took a new form.

The pattern extended beyond the clothes to the styling, with these cascading petal earrings elevating the vision.

The colour palette was classic, dainty and simple: whites, blacks, beige, baby pinks and yellows, were elevated with flashes of blue, green and red. Reflecting the calm colour pallets of the wénwán walnuts, fresh spring air and blossoming spring flowers.

This was a super consistent collection and a pleasure to watch. Despite being nothing compared to the brand's extravagant couture, it was lovely to see a classic Dior collection with 65/65 flawless looks.

I will be honest and admit that there was a little less whimsy than we are used to seeing from Anderson, and I would’ve loved to see stronger motifs, like the iconic ladybug or clover; however, with the show's inspiration and roots, the direction didn't feel lacking. It was a really peaceful collection in a picturesque setting.

Anderson has really settled into his position at the French house over the past year, and we personally can’t wait for what's to come.